Yangon, Sunday, February 18
In the morning I was delighted to discover that my cold was gone - there was no need to make another trip to the pharmacist. Outside I found The Mg Aye Lay, my trishaw driver, was waiting. He then drove me to the northwestern part of the city see what is called the "World's largest book." Arrayed around a large stupa there were 729 marble slabs inscribed with Buddhist text. Each of these 2-meter (6 foot) high tablet is set in it's own little stupa. It was quite an impressive sight.
As I was the first visitor, I was immediately surrounded by vendors hoping to make the lucky first sale of the day. One lady stood in my path and wouldn't leave until I promised to look at her stand on my way out - she was pleasant but persistent. Another tied a little chain of flowers around my wrist and then tried to lure me to her stand. They all had high hopes.
After walking around the outside to get a sense of how big the paya was, I visited the two ladies but didn't see anything that interested me. They seemed satisfied that I had looked and wish me good bye.
Then we drove over to another paya - sorry, the name of this one is lost from my memory. I was pretty close to reaching my quota of payas. Anyway, there was an old man sitting next to the stupa, ringing a little bell. He offered me let me ring it too. I declined. I knew this routine: you ring his bell and he will ask for money.
As I walked away I had a second thought: I carry a hat on my trips that my boss gave me. It has the company logo on it. He likes me to take a picture of myself in front of some monument with the hat on. It seems like a simple gesture to keep him happy. This time I vowed to do something different.
I walked back and ask the old man, "Can I take your picture in this?" He smiled and put it on - I got several great pictures of him. I then gave him a couple of hundred Kyat for his trouble. He was happy: my boss would be happy too. Outside, I decided Mg Aye Lay might look good in the hat and I took a few pictures of him also.
On the way back to the hotel, I asked Mg Aye Lay to stop at a silk factory where I bought some fabric for my mother. Then we stopped at a couple of craft shops. At the last one I found a great tapestry. As I came out with each purchase, Mg Aye Lay passes his judgment: he though I got a great deal on the fabric but paid too much for the tapestry. So loaded with gifts, we headed back.
At the hotel we said goodbye. We shook hands and I gave him a tip. Then he handed me his card. He had neatly printed the following information on it: Mg Aye Lay, the Trishaw Man. Of course, I wasn't his card: instead he had written it on one from the Unity Hotel. "Please tell your friends," he asked.
So, if you find yourself in Mandalay and need a trishaw man, please stop by the Unity Hotel and ask for Mg Aye Lay - you will know him by the funny little beige hat with a down-turned brim that he wears. He's a great guide and companion and I wish him well.
Around noon I took a taxi back out to airport. The return fare was 2000 Kyat. After a short wait in the cavernous new airport, I flew back to Yangon. I was actually returning one day early. The dust and noise of Mandalay had worn we down and I had decided to spend the extra day in the relative quiet of Yangon.
At the Yoma, the desk clerk smiles and said, "So you have come back a day early." They put me in a room on the third floor. Then I got a taxi and made a second trip to Shwedagon Paya. It's a place that merits more than one visit, despite the hefty entrance fee.
Afterwards I took a taxi to the Sabai Sabai restaurant for dinner, another place that merits multiple visits. This time I sat outside: there were insects flying around the lights and a few little lizards dining on them. Coming from a cold climate, dining outside is a treat. Back at the hotel, I got my country tape and went to find a café where I could listen to it and have a beer.
Yangon, Monday, February 19
I took a trishaw to the Botatung Paya after breakfast. As I was walking around I guy stepped out of a little shop and called me over. The sign above his door said he was a fortuneteller. I had actually thought it might be interesting to visit one of these guys.
First, he invited me to take his picture - he saw I had my camera out. He indicated that I should be sure to include the sign above the door that said who he was. He then offered to tell my fortune for $20. "Wow," I exclaimed, "That's a lot of money." I was thinking something more like $1. "I'll tell you a lot, " he said, "For example, I can see that you are always in a hurry." "Right you are," I said, "Sorry, I got to get going." He laughed and waved good bye. I didn't feeling like bargaining with him, there just seemed to be too much distance between his price and mine.
In front of the paya there were several flower vendors. They were selling blossoms that were strung together into necklaces. You put them on the Buddha as an offering, I guess. Anyway, one of the vendors was a lovely young girl and I wanted to take her picture. First, I bought a string of flowers for 100 Kyat and then ask if I could take her picture. She was a little embarrassed - her fellow flower vendors were teasing her - but I could also see that she was flattered. I stood her by the paya wall and took several pictures of her.
Later, I took a trishaw downtown and sent the rest of the day walking round and taking pictures of anyone who would hold still. In many ways this is my favorite travel activity: just wandering where ever my whim takes me.
In the evening I went back to Sabai Sabai. When I was waiting for a taxi to return me to my hotel, I ran into an American fellow and we decided to go to a bar for a beer. He suggested a place called 50th Street Bar and Grill - it was one of those bars designed to make expatriates feel at home. It was full of American kitsch: street signs, advertisements and such. They also played a steady stream of American music. It was a strange experience to step out of Myanmar in to a little piece of American.
I spent a pleasant few hours talking to the guy - he had worked at an astronomical observatory in Hawaii before quitting to come to Myanmar to study meditation - but I'm not sure I cared for the surrounding. In truth, I love Asia and would be going back to America all too soon.
Bangkok, Tuesday, February 20
In the morning I caught a flight back to Bangkok. After checking in to the River View Guest House, I went out to prowl Bangkok. I had in mind to just hangout, eat Thai food and do a little shopping. The weather was hot but still quite pleasant.
Bangkok, Wednesday, February 21
The entire day was given over to wandering around Bangkok. I didn’t' take any pictures and I didn't buy anything - a very pleasant day.
Detroit, Thursday, February 22
The highlights of the day were the 3:00 AM taxi ride to the airport and the 18 hour flight home. When I got to Ann Arbor I found it was snowing. "What am I doing here?" I ask myself rhetorically.
Ann Arbor, Michigan
April 2001
Part One - Yangon and Bago
Part Two - Bagan, Mt. Popa and Salay
Part Three - Mandalay, 3 Ancient Cities and Mingun
Next: Part Five - The details
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